Oolong is a category defined by what it is not. Not fully oxidized like black tea, not unoxidized like green tea. Somewhere in between — but that in-between is vast. Some oolongs taste green and floral, almost like a light green tea. Others taste dark, roasted, and rich, closer to a light black tea than anything you would recognize as oolong.

Most oolongs come from two places: Fujian province in southern China, and Taiwan. Each tradition has its own style, its own set of famous teas, and its own approach to processing. This section covers both.